In the late s. X is when the barons of Pinós decide to establish Bagà as the capital of their dominions. This medieval past is still very much present today. For example with the Plaça Porxad de Galçeran de Pinós, and the Medieval and Cathar Center located in the Palace of the Pinós Barons. This has become the nerve center of the Camí dels Bons Homes, a trans-Pyrenean tourist itinerary that goes from the Queralt Sanctuary to the Castle of Montsegur and Foix to the Ariège, France. It seeks to commemorate the exile of the Occitan Cathars, otherwise called Good Men and Good Women, who promoted pure and simple Christianity, based on spirituality and against the authoritarian, corrupt and ostentatious 13th-century Catholic church.
The route that is proposed here it's a taste around the town of Bagà. At the same time it connects the two main historical roads connecting this town with the Cerdanya valley. We climb first through the Riugréixer valley following the Coll de Jou path, which goes into the spectacular beech grove of the Gréixer valley to the Escriu pass, already entering the Pendís valley. The return is followed by the lower section of the Coll de Pendís path, also called the Empedrats, a heritage relic that still preserves the cobbled part of this cumbersome path. Everything in the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park.
The route starts at the Information Center of the Natural Park of Cadí-Moixeró and goes up to Gréixer by the Creu de l'Om, following the Camí dels Bons Homes (GR 107). You have to follow the side of the road of coll de pal about 4 km, following the course of the Riugrecer river. You will pass through the recreational area of Riugréixer and the Estret del Malgrau. You will see the viaduct of the C-16 where you have probably gone in the direction of the Cadi tunnel, and see how impressive it looks from below!
Once you reach El Pontarró, turn left following the track of Gréixer, a small village at the foot of the Moixeró range. This will take you to the entrance of the village. Come to see the tranquility of this place. In the background you will see the chapel dedicated to Sant Andreu, crowned by a Cathar cross, standing high. You will have an impressive view here of the Moixeró range to the north. Returning to the track, you will begin the long climb up to the Escriu pass, by one of the great beech forests that the Natural Park you are walking on can boast.
Once on the pass, you will see on the right one of the paths that go up to the Moixeró, but you must follow the path that goes down west to the house of Escriu, already entering the valley of the Pendis. Before reaching the house, you will come to an old forest track that you must follow to the right. The path continues past the house following the same orientation of this valley of the Pendís up, by a nice path that alternates forestry in the beech and open sections overlooking the entire valley. Take a look at some steps along the way with retaining walls made of dry stone. You will arrive at the Sant Jordi refuge a good place to recover your strength. You will come to the Empedrats path where you will return to Bagà and leave the Bons Homes path (GR 107) here, continuing along the path uphill towards Coll del Pendís, one of the steps towards Cerdanya.
Before you start the descent down the stream, you can also approach the source of the beech hidden in a small cave to the west of the shelter, it always tends to fall, even in the driest years. To resume the course, you will already face the stream following the marks of the PR-C 125 and in a few minutes you will pass through the large fountain of Escriu just at the riverbed. Keep going down the road in the middle of the writ of Escriba still with some beeches that as you descend will make way for the pine, and at all times with the presence of boxwood. After crossing the stream a couple of times, you will see the valley narrowing until you reach the crooked Narrow Strait. The path winds through the stream until you reach the Salt dels Empedrats or the Horse tail of the Empedrats, another place of great beauty. Keep going downhill, marveling at the stretches of curb retaining walls and retaining walls. What engineering from before!
You will meander down the stream until you reach the junction of the Bullidor de la Llet, a natural spring that springs from a fissure on a large wall of limestone. We recommend doing any, especially if it is a season with abundant water. You will find wooden walkways that make the path easier. Continue down the shady, pleasant path, past the Vents del Cadi Refuge. Formerly in this place was the Hostel, which gives its name to this whole neighborhood. The structure of a 16th-century farmhouse with later additions is still noticeable due to its use as a hostel on the Camino Real de la Cerdanya.
You will finally reach the track of the Dou del Bastareny just in front of the old Cal Cerdanyola farmhouse that now houses the Aula de Natura la Salle. Some time ago there was a mill - now in ruins - that used the waters of the Pendís river. There is also the Font Nostra, which tends to flow. Continue on the track towards Bagà again following the path of the Camí dels Bons Homes (GR 107), a flat track that follows the course of the Bastareny to a certain height on its left bank.
When you reach the Gisclareny road you can turn 100 m to the right and enter the recreational area of the Sant Joan bridge to pause in this quiet place by the Bastareny river. Take the road again and head for Bagà. You will pass by the camping Bastareny just below the Riugrecer river that you followed at the beginning of the route. Here you are about to dump your waters in the Bastareny. Continue straight on and you will soon be at the Information Center of the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park, the end of the route.
Route number: 59
Distance: 19 Km
Time: 6,5 hores
maximum altitude: 1556 metres
height difference: 1150 metres
Cartography: 46-Parc Natural del Cadí-Moixeró E. 1:25.000. Institut Cartogràfic i Geològic de Catalunya Moixeró - La Tosa 1:25.000. Ed. Alpina
Bibliography: Topoguia del Camí dels Bons Homes. Editorial Altaïr www.camidelsbonshomes.com. Inventari de Patrimoni: patrimonicultural.diba.cat
OFICINA DE TURISME DEL BERGUEDÀ
Carretera C16 Km 96
08600-Berga. Phone (+34) 654 125 696
Monday to Friday: 9 to 14h.
Saturday: 10 to 14 & 16 to 18h.
Sunday and holidays: 10 to 14h.